News

Titanic is open to climbing again. South Hardscrabble Creek climbing (Ego’s Nest, Scene of the Crime, Isabella’s Tierra) remains closed. The USFS will evaluate the road again after the winter snows and spring runoff and rains.

Per Michael Davis:

Good morning,

I’d just like to let you know that the Titanic Climbing Area near Westcliffe, Colorado is currently within the closure zone for the Junkins Wildland Fire. No one will be allowed into this area until the US Forest Service lifts the closure.

Thought you might want to share this information with the members of your organization.

Thank you,
Michael Davis, Public Information Officer
Junkins Fire
Great Basin IMT 1

Jenkins Fire Information Line 719-283-1710

South Hardscrabble climbing at Ego’s Nest, Scene of the Crime and Isabella’s Tierra also closed to climbing until further notice.

We did it. After two years of working with the State Land Board and the local land lessee, SoCO CRAG was  allowed one day of legal climbing access to Beddows Dome.  A special use permit was issued  for one day of use on July 26. A total of 18 Westcliffe and Pueblo climbers met up for a spectacular time on the domes cracks, plates, and chickenheads. Seven trad lines were lead by local rockstars. A fantastic time was had by all on the best trad lines in the Wet Mountains. Thanks to all the help the Access Fund provided in terms of technical support and event insurance. This was a one time event, with climbing still seen as an illegal use of Beddows Dome.   We hope that this single day of access will be seen by the state and our partners as a positive example of compatible use for future expansion.

The State Land Board wants to hold off on making a decision about allowing climbing at Beddows Dome until Parks & Wildlife are able to assess the raptor situation. The State Land Board is giving Parks & Wildlife until July 2014 to complete the raptor study. We will be working with the other land users during that time to find an access solution that works for all parties involved.

SoCO CRAGs application for nonprofit status has been approved. Thanks to Joe Bower and Craig Blockwick for legal advice with the application. Thanks to the Access Fund for their application advice and for the $400 grant that covered the application fee.

Ben Bruestle was recently awarded the ARI Equipper of the Year by the Editors of Climbing Magazine for his hard work and dedication to this important project.   The award included a prize package from ARI’s partners The North Face, Petzl, and Blue Water Ropes as well as a feature in the Climbing Magazine ARI commercial   http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/av/ari_equipper_of_the_year/

SoCo CRAG members James Lopez and Holly and Ben Bruestle have been replacing anchors with new ARI-donated gear around the Wet Mountains.

Here is our ongoing list:

(Route, Cliff)

Newlin Creek

True Grit, Creek Side, – belay station at top of second pitch

Bam Bam, Wild Side – anchor at top of first and second pitch

KC, Wild Side – anchor at top of first and second pitch

No Vengeance, Days End Wall-new top out anchor   May 2012

Unknown, Idlewilde – first four sets of top out anchors on right side of cliff

Hardscrabble

I Did It My Way, Titanic – top out anchor

The Beak, Raven Buttress-new anchors first & second pitches

Tuff Turf, Titanic – top out anchor

Sobriety Check, Titanic – top out anchor

Rapid Falls, Titanic – top out anchor

Torres de Fuegos, Titanic, Hardscrabble – top out anchor

River Lin, Titanic, Hardscrabble-top out anchor

Pot Hole, Titanic, Hardscrabble-top anchor

Ship’s Prowl, Titanic, Hardscrabble, top anchor

Afghanistanian War, Titanic, top anchor

St. Charles Canyon

Phantasm, Goliath Gorge – top out anchor

Fantasia, Goliath Gorge – top out anchor

Surf Colorado, Goliath Gorge – top out anchor

the rightmost route, Goliath Gorge – top out anchor

If you notice a sketchy anchor or one in need of replacement please let us know by email or phone.

From the Access Fund website:

Southern Colorado CRAG – Organizational Start-up
A grant was awarded to Southern Colorado CRAG (SoCo CRAG) to help cover start-up costs to become a 501(c)(3) non-profit corporation. The Southern Colorado front range features numerous crags on private property. In their first year, SoCo CRAG has been highly active, improving and establishing positive relationships with landowners to protect threatened areas and to open new access. The organization’s 501(c)(3) status will help with fundraising and future land conservation projects.

accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=4992425&ct=8660323